Beyond Secret Beach: San Pedro, Belize Culture Guide For Food, Nightlife and Local Vibes
Why I Swapped Tourist Traps for the Real Ambergris Caye
Belize is the only English-speaking country in Central America so before visiting, a friend and I decided it would be a great place to move at 40. In 2022, after some Google research and a list of properties from a local Realtor I booked a flight in the middle of the night and started planning for my first international real estate trip. I touched down in San Pedro on Valentine’s Day weekend excited to check out an island that Dr. Sebi said had healing properties. My first two days on the island were spent getting jump-scared by iguanas that were bigger than my cats and hearing country music everywhere I went. Every place I went that was suggested for American tourists was boring, and overpriced and felt more like my home in Surf City, NC than Central America. Then I met Lupe at Secret Beach and he offered to show me San Pedro from a local lens.
Most visitors never see the real San Pedro. The true energy on Ambergris Caye feels like the Wakandans and Talokans shook and made up in “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever.”The vibes are a beautiful blend of Garifuna and Mayan influences that most people miss while hanging out on private beaches and touristy spots that locals don’t frequent.
This guide is for travelers that want a chill but memorable vacation on Ambergris Caye. No full itineraries or mandatory places to take pics for the ‘gram. Instead, you’ll find information to plan out a trip that’s perfect for YOU focused on embracing the relaxed pace and local culture of Belize while flowing through each day. Secret Beach has grown so much in the past four years. It’s fun for a beachy, vacay vibe, but the commute from town takes over 30 minutes. I went there twice during my month-long sabbatical and had a good time, but there’s so much more to explore on the island.
Know Before You Go
When you land in Belize you’ll be at Phillip S. W. Goldson International Airport (BZE) in Belize City. From there you can take a hopper flight with Maya or Tropic Air or the Belize Express water taxi. Be sure to factor this cost into your budget.
Golf carts are the main mode of transportation on the island and the roads that aren’t newly paved are really rough. Be sure to factor that in when you see “just 5 miles from…”
The exchange rate has been two Belizean dollars for each US dollar for as long as I’ve been visiting. Easy math, even for me.
Credit cards are welcome at most places but only Visa is widely accepted so leave the AMEX at home.
If you plan on shopping with local vendors you’ll need cash. The US dollar is accepted most places, but my suggestion is to get Belizean cash from an ATM.
Bring bug spray. Mosquitos can get pretty aggressive on the lagoon side.
Safety: 9 out of 10
I’ve been here solo, on a couple’s trip and a three-generation family trip. If you use common sense you should be fine.
Accessibility: 3 out of 10
Most buildings are one story with a high threshold or a few steps. Ramps are rare and the ones I saw had a crazy incline. Buildings don’t always have handrails at the stairs and there are no elevators. If someone needed assistance, I’m sure employees would assist, but if you prefer autonomy, you’ll experience some frustration.
Be incredibly careful if you have vision or balance issues. For someone with low vision like me, it’s a mixed bag. There are a lot of curbs and speed bumps with faded paint that are hard to see, and some resorts camouflage items in the ground so pay attention. Most stores that aren’t exclusively for tourists are incredibly junky. Like, ‘half the inventory in boxes in the aisles junky’ which creates tripping hazards. At the beaches, the bedrock is really high on the island so in areas where there’s erosion, rough rocks peek up through the sand.I tripped over one and punctured my big toe.
Bites, Beats, and Belikin: A Taste of Belize
Black and White Restaurant - This locally owned restaurant has amazing Belizean jerk chicken, reasonable prices and puts a spotlight on Garifuna culture. It’s also one of the only places in Belize where you can get hudut year-round. The owner, Miss Julie, is super sweet and dedicated this business to shining a light on the African influences in Belize. The staff is really kind and they have a full bar. Festi Fact: If you make a request ahead of time, Garifuna drummers and dancers can perform for your group during dinner.
El Fogon is the oldest restaurant on the island and still under Belizean ownership. Last time I went, it was an open-air restaurant centered around a fire hearth but was recently closed in to add air conditioning. On the strength of nostalgia, I got the fire hearth stew chicken. The chicken was fall-off-the-bone tender, the sauce had a hint of coconut and the rice was fluffy.
Sunset Lounge- After dinner at El Fogon you could head across the street to the SANCAS building. Sunset Lounge is a rooftop bar with an amazing sunset view on the lagoon side. On weekends they have a DJ that spins a mix of Caribbean music, rap and Top 40s. Note: On the 4th floor and the building has no elevator.
End Zone Sports Bar and Grill- The windows are covered with posters so it’s dark and vibe-y no matter what time you show up. A bartender at Sunset Lounge told me about salpicon and I was intrigued so I went downstairs to order some. It’s a delicious Latin American dish that I’d call the pork equivalent of ceviche, made with a mix of diced pork, tomatoes, onions and cilantro. Each time I went there were a lot of local patrons and a beer special. Note: On the 3rd floor and the building has no elevator.
Planning a trip to San Pedro? Here’s an interactive map to see the best lodging options and places to visit.
El Buen Taco- I was drunk and got a burrito here for $5 BZE ($2.50 USD). Ate it in the dark while the painter was driving so didn’t even really see it but it was a good, cheap dinner. They’re locally owned and open from 5–11:30 am and again from 5–11:30 pm.
Juvinie’s Sports Bar- This bar is hidden in plain sight on Black Coral Street a block south of Maxie’s. The easiest way to find it is to go to the Back Street market and look southwest for a bar with dollar bills all over the wall. I went for the salpicon when the kitchen was closed at End Zone and I’m pretty sure I was the only tourist both times I was there. Drink prices are decent and two guys close to me were eating some chicken wings that looked really crispy. The speaker system is insanely good. It was too loud for me during the day so I carefully headed upstairs to the quieter area. Festi Fact: They have a DJ and karaoke night on Thursday - Sunday from 7pm to midnight.
Maxie’s Restaurant and Lounge - This restaurant is located on Back Street. I drove past it at least 100 times going back and forth to the paint store to update my condo. I got a chicken sweet and spicy sesame salad with extra cilantro that was fresh and flavorful. It’s a pretty small, efficient space that has a coffee bar at one entrance and a full bar at the other. There’s also an upstairs area that has a DJ on the weekends. Festi Fact: If you want to shake a lil’ something without paying a cover charge show up on Friday for Ladies Night.
Sandbar Hostel Rooftop Pool Bar- I was a luxury traveler when I was working but now I’m just happy to have my face in the place. I search everything from hotels to Amazon by filtering by ratings of 4/5 stars with the lowest price. It’s an easy way to find an affordable, clean place to stay with a few bells and whistles. That’s how I found this new gem in Belize. On a previous trip we stayed in a private unit at Drift Inn hostel which has access to Sandbar’s pool. In the past few years, they’ve added a rooftop with 360 views, a full bar, restaurant and an infinity pool that makes for a picturesque, relaxing stop on Boca Del Mar. The food is average, but it’s one of the few places on the island that delivers. The rooftop pool bar is open Thursday to Monday from 11 am to 8 pm.
Note: This building has no elevator.
Local Motion: Embracing the Island Flow
On Ambergris Caye, 'island time' isn’t just a t-shirt slogan—if you try to move around like you’re still in the states you’ll be too early and need a chiropractor from rushing in a golf cart on the bumpy roads. It may take a few days but embracing the chill attitude of the island will give you the chance to enjoy impromptu conversations and take in all the beautiful sights of being in a tropical area. Here are some of my favorite places to visit.
Donovan’s Coconuts - If you go to Secret Beach or venture “above the bridge” be sure to stop and rehydrate with fresh coconut water and good convos with my Belizean buddy Donovan. If you’re trying to kill a few birds with one stone, his wife offers massages and hair braiding so plan ahead and stay for a while.
Saul’s Cigar and Coffee- The coffee is great and I appreciate all the wood carvings that depict this family’s Mayan heritage. Saul’s is one of my first stops each time I touch down. They have fresh coffee all day and sweetened, rum-infused creamer. It’s run by a father-son team and they’re really nice people. If you’re into cigars, the humidor was expanded recently.
Traveller’s Liquor Tasting Room - This is located on Middle Street a little south of Saul’s. If you like spiked coffee or just want to taste some local rum for free, you won't go wrong here or the Tiburon Rum Tasting Room a few blocks away.
Central Park - This beachfront park is located at the clock tower on Front Street. There are small local shops here and the San Pedro letter photo backdrop looks freshly painted. Throughout the day you’ll see people fishing off the dock, kids playing soccer and a few of the local strays strolling through.
This is part one of my favorite places in my favorite city. Stay tuned….
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